Every year, as the trees change colour and the air starts to feel cooler, a buzz of energy and excitement fills the streets as the city prepares for the Basel Herbstmesse – two weeks of fun, food and frolics! But this year, the anticipation is more palpable than ever before. Not only is the city celebrating the fair’s return after its covid related cancellation in 2020, which left a sizeable shaped hole in Basel’s 2020 social calendar. But this year, Switzerland’s largest amusement fair also celebrates its 550th anniversary.
Of course, the 2021 Basel Herbstmesse looks and feels slightly different due to the covid protection measures. But this fair has a very long history of adapting to difficulties and changing circumstances, so there was no doubt in my mind that in 2021 it would be as successful and fun as ever!
To mark this special anniversary year and to shout another ‘hip hip hooray’ that we are all able to gather and socialise again, I thought I would grab my camera, wander the fair and take you all along for the ride… pardon the pun!
We begin our tour north of the river Rhein in Kleinbasel at the Messe Basel and Congress Centre. Each year this collection of halls and exhibition space hosts over 1000 events and welcomes over 1 million visitors. But at the end of October, adrenaline junkies from near and far replace the trade fair crowds, flocking to the Exhibition Square to ride on some of the more hair-raising rides that the fair offers.
As my tram pulled up and the doors opened, the peace and quiet immediately shattered as the sound of screams of delight and terror filled the carriage. After a quick and friendly entrance through covid control (all fair-goers require a covid certificate and ID to get into the amusement areas), I found a spot to watch the fun whilst keeping my two feet firmly on the ground! I really love the setting here. The super modern Messe building is metallic and industrial-looking, juxtaposing the bright, high-speed fairground rides. A real treat for my photographic eye. Between rides, fair-goers here seemed particularly keen on the candy floss that the owner’s of the nearby bright pink stall couldn’t spin fast enough!
Fun Herbstmesse Fact: Whether you call it candy floss, cotton candy or Zuckerwatte, it didn’t arrive at the Basel Herbstmesse until after the 2nd World War
Ten minutes and one candy floss stick later (I figured it would have been plain rude not to try it), I found myself following the crowds flocking towards the Hallenmesse and the very popular ‘Super 80s’ fair. This year, the organisers decided to bring back many of the classic Herbstmesse rides and attractions popular during that infamously neon decade. Classic 80s tunes, bumper cars, a funhouse and the Wiener-Prater-Geisterbahn (ghost train) have all been revamped, much to the delight of nostalgic Baslers and the younger crowd alike.
I stayed in Kleinbasel for my next stop, which was just a few streets to the west. Kaserne is North West Switzerland’s largest centre for contemporary dance, theatre and innovative music. However, during the Herbstmesse, its outdoor space is transformed into a magical fairground that tailors more towards families and younger visitors. One of the great things about the Basel Herbstmesse is that it takes place right in the heart of the city, so all the locations have a public transport stop nearby. At Kaserne, staff were directing visitors to the entrance as soon as we stepped off the tram.
As I strolled along, I saw traditional games and attractions, yet more food stalls and some cute fun rides for the mini thrillseekers that aren’t quite ready for the Messeplatz yet!
Now it was time to head across the river to Grossbasel and the first of three stops in this part of the city; Petersplatz and its Hääfelimärt (ceramics market). Crowds meander along the square’s alleyways lined with stalls selling everything from handmade wooden toys to clothes and umbrellas. I have picked up many Christmas gifts here over the years, always managing to find something unique and interesting.
Petersplatz is one of my favourite Herbstmesse locations as it holds so many happy memories from when my children were small. Every alley leads to the beautiful centrepiece, the Resslirytti; a stunning double-decker carousel that has been delighting children for 20 years. Unfortunately, due to covid restrictions, it could not attend this year, so to distract myself from the disappointment of not being able to photograph this beautiful attraction for you, I headed over to the Hääfelimärt: a huge ceramics market has been a part of the autumn fair since 1877. Traditionally it is where Baslers would come to replace the crockery they had accidentally smashed during the previous year. I am sure this is still the case for some, but today it attracts a mix of young and old looking for something a little bit different to take back home.
Another reason that visitors flood to Petersplatz is the abundance of food choices available along Petersgraben. As soon as you are anywhere in the vicinity, the smell of cheese and sugar assaults your senses in the most wonderful way. Yes, you will most likely have to queue, but I promise you the delights are more than worth it. A visit to Hasi’s Alphutte is at the top of many people’s list for some raclette or Hörnli und Ghackt’s (a macaroni and meat dish). And for a little sweet treat after, take your pick from numerous stalls selling traditional Lebkuchen, Mässmogge (short thick candy canes) and Magenbrot (sweet seasoned bread which is apparently excellent for digestion!)
A 10 minute walk away is our penultimate stop and my favourite of them all; Munsterplatz. Here you will find the Swiss Wheel, which at 46m high is the tallest Ferris Wheel in Switzerland. I love the way the 36 gondolas float quietly past the shuttered windows of the medieval buildings that line the square and the reflections they make once it is dark.
Under the autumnal trees in the square, you can find food from many parts of the world. We were delighted to discover the Cornish pasty seller there when we first arrived. A little slice of the UK to help keep us warm and remind us of home.
The final stop on our tour is Barfüsserplatz. This square used to be the centre place of the fair and is super accessible thanks to the eight tram lines that run straight through.
The longest queue here was for a ride called ‘Ski-Lift’. I heard one boy leap off and say to his slightly nauseated-looking mother that he wanted to go on it “one hundred more times!”. As they walked past me to rejoin the back of the line, she smiled at me, but as one mother to another, I could see the look of silent desperation in her eyes.
So that brings us to the end of my tour. As I stood there watching that little boy excitedly drag his poor nauseous Mum onto the ride again, I looked around, and all I could see were families and friends laughing, hugging, eating, drinking and having fun. For the first time in a long time, the world felt a little bit normal again. So thank you, Basel Herbstmesse – you came along just when we needed you. My camera and I will see you next time. Here’s to the next 550 years!
Download the map of all the Basel Herbstmesse Fairgrounds here.
