Ode to Route 50 and biking in Switzerland

Whenever I introduce myself here in Switzerland and mention I am originally from the Netherlands, one of the (many) responses always is: “You guys really love biking!”. And it’s true. In the Netherlands, where there are three bikes for every inhabitant, you will find us more often than not on a bike. Kids are put on a tricycle as soon as they can keep themselves upright, and a parent’s favourite way to commute to school/supermarket/train station is with their kid perched at the front or back of their bike. But since moving to Switzerland, biking for me has evolved into more than just a way to get from a to b – it’s a way of life. My bike helps me discover new places, meet people, all while staying fit and healthy.

My first ever bike ride in Switzerland was back in 2015 where I rode through the Genevan countryside with the Bike Club Switzerland. I was in Geneva for a job interview – which I did not know at the time would completely change my life – and I had rented a road bike from the bike shop running the club. That easygoing ride introduced me to the rolling hills and the vineyards around Geneva, and I joined the club again that Saturday for a similar ride. Solo, I also discovered the roads towards Versoix, heading up from the lake and checking out some picturesque villages and late Sunday lunches. Needless to say: I instantly fell in love with biking in Switzerland!

When I came back to Switzerland a few months later for a 6-week training (yes, I had landed the job), I did not hesitate one bit to bring my trusty road bike along with me. As I picked it up from the special luggage belt next to the skis and snowboards at Geneva airport, I was relieved it had arrived safely, and our adventures could begin. But coming from the relatively flat Netherlands, without even many hills, let alone mountains and their famous “Col” (French for mountain pass), I had no clue what I was in for.

But one has to take the opportunity when it presents itself. So during that 6-week stint in Switzerland, I went out on my bike every opportunity: Tours with the Bike Club, commuting to my training in Geneva and biking up my first Col (mountain pass), Col de la Faucille. I surprised myself and hugely enjoyed the adrenaline rush and amazing view from the top of the Faucille, overlooking Lake Geneva and the Alps.

In fact, after those first six weeks, feeling like a cycling rookie in Switzerland, I never looked back. It took me a while to get back to Switzerland after a ‘detour’ through Djibouti, Lebanon and South Sudan, but finally, three years ago, my husband and I moved to Switzerland as residents. Honestly, I could not wait to unpack my bike (again), join my friends on Saturday mornings for a ride, a bakery stop (z-Nüni included) and conquer a few more ‘Cols’ while I was at it.

Biking has evolved into a way of life for me and whatever challenge I am facing. After a stressful workday, COVID times, never-ending mom days, I can always count on my bike (and legs) to ground myself, forget about everything, and be amazed at what Switzerland, and Suisse Romandie in particular, has to offer.

It took becoming a permanent resident to really start exploring by bike. While I had noticed numbered signs before, I never really paid attention until I coincidentally found out about the ‘Switzerland Mobility’ app. It turns out that all around Switzerland, there are signposted bike routes that take you to beautiful places via the most scenic and relatively car-free roads! In addition, the app also contains summer hiking trails, winter paths and many more outdoors (all non-motorized) options! It is the coolest app that I have even been able to recommend to some local Swiss who had no idea a digital version of the trails they were exploring every weekend existed.

My current and probably all-time favourite bike route is Route 50, ‘Pied de Jura’, which takes you from Geneva via Yverdon les Bains/Lac Neuchatel over the Röstigraben, ending up in Olten. While I have never completed 255km in its entirety, I often take part of this route. Whether commuting from Crans to Geneva, pulling our son in the bike-trailer through the forest near Chavannes, or a challenging solo bike tour to Genolier and beyond, it’s a beautiful route. Relatively easy, too, with no extreme climbing and stunning views across the lake guaranteed. And with a bit of luck, the mighty Mont Blanc even shows itself to you … just magnificent!

The route is well signposted, so no need to look at maps (or phones) to find your way. It connects to other bike routes if you want to make an itinerary, and you can always head downhill to the lake to take the “easy” way home. Cycling in Switzerland has really become popular over the last years, electric bikes included. While I do not ride an electric bike – it is just against my Dutch nature – I admit that when I take on another hill (Route 50 does have some sorry) I secretly wish I wasn’t so stubborn. But then again, the reward with an amazing view and a coffee/croissant is always worth the leg burn.

About Paulien

A true Dutchie at heart, I lived in 6 countries before I landed in ‘Suisse Romandie’ in 2018. As a full-time working mother, I love exploring the area by bike and showing my kiddo Switzerland’s beauty that has become our home.

You can follow Paulien over on Instagram

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