Saying that there are many beautiful things to see and do in Switzerland is like saying that a global pandemic is a bit of a downer. A huge understatement. Everyone living here has a long list of ‘must-see’ destinations. However, for those based in north-western Switzerland (Baslers, I’m looking at you), do you know that there are some gorgeous weekend outings just on your doorstep?
Oberbaselbiet translates to upper Basel Land and is the region of the canton south-east of Basel, with the highest altitude. The four outings included below are certainly not a comprehensive list of things to do in the region, but as locals, they are our go-to options whenever we are looking to partake in the Swiss sport of Sunday hiking, but without the hassle of packing backpacks and long drives.
Whether you are in the mood for some genuine action and hiking or would prefer a lovely lunch with a side of ‘hiking’, this list should give you an idea or two.
Option 1: Altitude, Adrenalin & a Gondola
Where is it? Wasserfallen in Reigoldswil
Who is it for? This is for those who have a whole day to spare, are up for a bit of action (and even adrenalin), and would like to tick off a regional landmark (the highest point of Basel Land).
How do you get there? A very easy with a car, just take the Liestal exit on the A2 and then drive another 20km or so up the valley (obviously Google will provide you with all the additional details you require). With public transport, take the train to Liestal and then the Number 70 bus (it’s a 25-minute bus ride). From the bus stop, it’s a well-signed 10-minute walk to the base station,
What do you do?
Your first decision when you arrive at the Wasserfallen base station is whether you will tackle the two-hour hike, or take the more leisurely 10-minute gondola ride up to the top. I do recommend the hike if you have time and no small children (if you do have small children, then well done on getting everyone out of the house, and also, they serve alcohol at the top).
To be honest, there will definitely be a time during the (fairly steep) hike when you will look up at the gondola and think you made the wrong decision, but stay strong, as the setting and views along the walk are beautiful and you will be rewarded with a lovely feeling of pride & smugness when you get to the top. As the name Wasserfallen hints at, there are even some small waterfalls on the walk-up.
Once at the top, there are a few options for what you can do. You can continue the additional 20-30 minute hike up to the highest point of Basel Land, take a lovely flat stroll over to Bergwirtschaft Waldweide (a very rustic and relaxed restaurant), or have a BBQ at one of the several BBQ areas with picnic tables (wood provided). If you are braver than I am, you might voluntarily head to the high ropes course amongst the trees (I did it once, under duress as a team-building exercise, and sufficiently embarrassed myself for a lifetime). If you get lucky with some lovely clear weather, you even get beautiful views of the Alps (this should counteract any frustration you had in the car park, which can be a bit crazy on those fair weather days).
The way down presents you with another choice; the adrenalin junkies can rent a Trotti (a scooter) to ride (or race) back down to the base station, and the rest (of us more civilised citizens) can either walk or take the gondola.
For more details on what restaurants and activities are open and available, and to download hiking and biking maps, you can check out the website.
Option 2: Nature with a side of culture
Where is it? In Bubendorf, visiting Schloss Wildenstein and then ending at restaurant Bad Bubendorf
Who is it for? This day is for those who are looking for something to do on the first Sunday of the month and like to break up their (fairly relaxed) hiking with some culture and culinary offerings. Also for people who love a castle, even a relatively small one.
How do you get there? Again, with a car, it’s pretty easy. Based on this itinerary I recommend you park at Bad Bubendorf (a hotel/restaurant with a big car park), and then jump on the small local train towards Waldenburg. With public transport, you catch the train to Liestal and then switch to the small local train that will take you towards Waldenburg (past Bad Bubendorf, where the drivers have parked). You get off the train at the first stop in Hölstein.
(As I write this in July 2020 the local train line is closed for major upgrades, so instead you need to check SBB for alternative options, likely a bus connection. To be honest, the little local train is a nice element of the trip, so perhaps best to wait until it’s back up and running).
What do you do?
Once you get off in Hölstein, you can find the start of hiking track just a little bit back down the valley. From there follow the yellow signs (and your phone, if need be) to take a gentle hike through some forest and a small town (Lampenberg) to Schloss Wildenstein, an old castle that is only open for tours and food on the first Sunday of the month, between June and October.
Once you make it to the castle, reward yourself by finding a table in the charming central courtyard and ordering a drink and perhaps some food. You can then join the tours that take place each half an hour, showing you through the rooms of the castle, learning about who lived there and how. Even if you do not speak German it’s probably still worth joining a tour to get a sticky beak at the rooms; just nod and smile at the right places and no one will even realise you have no idea what they’re talking about. To confirm opening times and tour times, check out the website.
Afterwards, you can continue walking towards the Hotel Bad Bubendorf. This place is an institution in the region, and whether you’re looking for some casual food and a drink (in the Garden Restaurant), or even fine dining (in the Pergola Restaurant or Restaurant Tre), you will find it here. It’s usually no problem to find a spot for a drink as a walk-in, but if you want to take your Swissness up a notch, then call ahead and book (remember to specify which restaurant you want – you can find details at their website)
After this, you’ll be ready to either jump in your car or back on your train, able to say you went for a ‘Sunday hike’, but knowing that it was mostly a gentle stroll between beautiful buildings and refreshing beverages.
Option 3: Short & simple on a Sunday
Where is it? The Aussichtsturm (viewing tower) in Liestal
Who is it for? This is for those who have a Sunday afternoon spare, want to spend some time in nature but want something very simple and relaxed. It’s an especially good option for those with kids at optimal playground age.
How do you get there? With a car, type the car park address (Liestal, Abzw. Hersberg) into Google, and you’re off. With public transport, it’s the train to Liestal and Bus 83 up to stop Liestal, Abzw. Hersberg.
What to do? So the bus stop and car park will both land you at the same starting point. From the little hut at the bus stop, you cross the road and then start the walk up through the forest up to the top of the mountain (I call it a mountain as an Australian, the Swiss seem to think of it more like a large hill). After the initial 10 minute walk, you get to a bit of a clearing with a water pump station and often a couple of cars. From here there are two ways to continue up; turn left for the short and steep footpath (20 minutes), or turn right to take the long and leisurely road, where you will have the occasional car (40 minutes). Both ways up are lovely, mostly in the shade of the forest, with glimpses of beautiful outlooks over the region.
At the top you will find an idyllic setting; rows of big wooden picnic tables under the shade of trees, a fantastic children’s playground (updated in 2020), a small hut serving food and drinks through windows (or inside at cozy tables in winter), and the viewing tower itself. The restaurant is run entirely by volunteers (and is open only on Sundays); they have a simple menu of Swiss classics (think lots of sausages) and a respectable drinks list, all at reasonable prices. My favourite, the soup, (served with or without Spatz/meat), is served in pots to dish up at the table yourself. We have also taken up sausages a few times and either lit (or ‘borrowed’) a fire.
For those brave (and energetic) enough to conquer the viewing tower, your reward is a beautiful 360-degree view of the region, stretching to Basel, the Vosges and across to the Black Forest. (FYI, you need 50Rp coins to climb the tower).
Option 4: Screw it, let’s eat!
Where is it? The Restaurant Le Murenberg in Bubendorf
Who is it for? Those who are sick of all this hiking business, have found a way to rid themselves of children and who enjoy really, really delicious food but without the pretentiousness of most fine-dining restaurants.
How to get there? As always, driving is the easiest. With public transport you need to take the train to Liestal, then the No 70 or 71 bus and get off at the stop Unterdorf
What do you do? You make a booking at the restaurant, you go there, and you eat very delicious food.
The atmosphere is entirely free of snobbery, a rare feat for Michelin-starred establishments, based on my limited experience. However, the service and food make you feel like you are in a top restaurant in Paris – they are truly world-class.
As you would expect with any restaurant at this level, it’s not cheap (around 100CHF per head for the tasting menu, then drinks on top of that), but if you’ve been in Switzerland long enough then prices will have lost their ability to shock you.
