When our little family of four first arrived in Switzerland 7 years ago, before we had a car or the children were even at school, we took a tram and a train and a bus to a magical sounding place called Reigoldswil in Baselland. After stepping off the yellow bus at precisely the time our schedule said we would, we excitedly took a 10-minute walk to the far end of this charming village and finally found what we were looking for—the valley station of the gondola that would whisk us up to the area known as Wasserfallen.
Much loved by the locals, this beautiful area offers stunning views across the rolling landscape of the Solothurn Jura. It is a hikers paradise during the hot days of summer, with its wide-open trails across impossibly scenic meadowlands and craggy steep paths through the shady forests. Don’t miss the ridge walk that offers views across to the Alps of the Bernese Oberland. Opt for a one-way gondola ticket and return to the valley either by the path of many waterfalls (where the mountain gets its name) or zoom down with a rented bulky scooter called a Trotti. Just add the rental on to your ticket and simply collect it at the top when you are ready to descend. Fuel all this strenuous activity with a visit to one of the eight restaurants, offering everything from hot chocolate and a quick snack to hearty and delicious 5-course feasts. And of course, as you would expect, there are many places to grill your bratwurst and picnic on fresh bread in the open air if that’s more your kind of thing.
But it’s not just the summer that offers up an adventure at Wasserfallen. In the colder months, families flock to these rolling hills for some fun and frolics in the snow. One cold December day, our family decided to join the masses and try the 4km toboggan run that directly takes you from the mountain station to the valley along the same winding forest route that we scooted down in the summer. If you don’t take your own sled, you can add a rental on to your one-way gondola ticket at the bottom and collect it at the top. As the children were still tiny, we decided to hire two and take one child each. After a bit of sledding fun on one of the hills near the mountain station and some hot chocolate from the Berggasthaus Hintere Wasserfallen to defrost us, we started our descent down, looking forward to some authentic Swiss Schlittelplausch (sledding fun!). As newcomers to this national winter pastime, and not wanting to get our plausch on too quickly, we set off slowly, unsure of what was ahead. We picked up speed so tried to slow ourselves down a little by digging our snow boots into the icy path, however before we had even reached the 1km marker, we quickly realised that gentle tobogganing is just not a thing in Switzerland. Small children, who I can only assume have been doing this since they could sit up, raced past at high speed, hotly followed by three generations of family elders. One particularly daredevil Grandfather shouted something at us in Swiss German as he passed which in my head roughly translated as ¨Go faster you embarrassingly slow British scaredy cats!¨ My quarter Austrian husband, whose family live by the motto ¨Danger first, safety second¨, suddenly connected with his alpine genes and picked up speed (much to the delight of my then five-year-old son). But I decided to continue with the slow and steady approach since I was in charge of the toddler. What’s that you say, darling boy? Faster, faster? Oh sweet child, you’re mixing up your comparative adjectives again. I think you mean slower slower Mummy, don’t you?
Thirty minutes later, after a spectacular crash into a wall of snow, several ESM’s (Emergency Swerve Maneuvers) and some more heckling from the multigenerational locals, we finally arrived at the bottom. Just as I allowed myself to think that the warm car ride home was beckoning, I heard those dreaded words. ¨Again, again!”
Tobogganing aside, Wasserfallen also offers a variety of other winter pursuits. Snowshoeing is very popular, allowing the opportunity to explore this winter wonderland away from the hiking paths. Snowshoes and poles can be hired from the office at the mountain station, and the out and back route is, of course, signposted all the way. Visitors can even join an evening group guided snowshoe tour that ends with a meal in one of the restaurants (Please note that reservation is required and this tour may not run or modified due to current covid measures). It is also possible to cross country ski from the Restaurant Waldweide, with two loops run and maintained by the Reigoldswil ski club that total 7km in length: one that is suitable for beginners and another that satisfies the more experienced athlete. It is possible to drive directly to this restaurant (snow chains may be required) or take the gondola up and enjoy the 20-minute walk to the start of the runs.
Whatever way you choose to enjoy this stunning corner of Switzerland, whatever the weather, I promise, you won’t be disappointed. Since we first stepped off the yellow bus all those years ago, we have returned again and again. And guess what? I reckon I still hold the record for slowest ever toboggan down the mountain – such the plausch!
