Where do you go when the mountains call? Do you scour the internet for a new destination each winter? Or do you revert to a trusted favourite time and time again?Kloster’s stole on my first visit as a 22-year-old who had only ever skied on a dry slope. I became swiftly blown away by the oblique horizons and houses built at impossible heights. The snow wrapping like lace around branches of trees contrasted beautifully with polka dot mugs of Schoggi Melange consumed beside roaring wood fires. Yes, these are aspects of all Swiss mountain resorts, but Klosters is special- at least in my eyes as well as famously in the eyes of the British royal family!
Eighteen years later, I am here to share with you my Klosters …
Skiing Klosters: 3 mountains at a glance
I begin by introducing the ski slope that raised my husband and now children – Selfranga an easy 7 min bus ride from the train station. Although this ski-slope is perfect for beginners, it is also great for fast-tracking intermediate skiers due to its confidence-inspiring but slightly sneaky terrain. The terrace of the cosy tea hut in the middle of the slope, run by wonderful Stefan and his team, is perfect for those family members who simply want to get lost in a book and some drinks whilst soaking up the sunshine overseeing the others skiing. It is also known for bi-weekly floodlit night skiing sessions for folk who really can’t get enough skiing during daylight hours! A summer tip: Selfranga has also evolved into a 9-holed golf course for people who like to swing their 9-iron’s amongst a moon-like view.
For advanced skiers, the iconic Gotchna Parsenn mountains are literally paradise. Ski between the tandem slopes of Kloster’s and Davos on the kilometres and kilometres of highly varied terrain beneath your feet. My favourite run is Besenbinde which trickles down the mountain between ginormous trees alive with alpine singing birds. You finish bang outside Wolfgang’s hotel and restaurant, which I love at lunchtime for its brimming fitness salads and imaginative children’s menu’s.
Speaking of children (I have two of them), the last few years have seen Madrisa as our host mountain, where we spend almost the entire season. It lives up to its name as the family mountain as buggies and all manner of snow transport bustle into the gondolas at the bottom station. There are magic carpets, t-bars and my style of chair lifts which boast heated seats. Whilst the kids are having fun in ski school, there is no need to feel short-changed as the upper slopes are thrilling and offer soaring views high above the clouds. I enjoyed relaxing in Madrissa Club’s modern restaurant when I was pregnant and not skiing. I would reach it partially by foot and partially by magic carpet. The delicious oh-so-thin pizza’s I overconsumed are probably why my older son is such a pizza and cheese lover now.
Klosters For the Non-Skiers
Klosters is generally much prettier than its business-like neighbour Davos, and there is no finer way to admire the old chalets of upper Monbiel than a Kutschen Fahrt (horse and cart ride). Beginning at the stable behind the Wynegg restaurant, the horses (which are looked after by the Sennehutte clad farming family of Christian Flutsch) take you on a rather hypnotic ride up towards Garfiun under snuggly sheepskin blankets. You can stop halfway for a warming Gluehwein or even Fondue if you wish to savour the experience further.
Another special place adorned with beautiful old chalets is the dizzying village of Monstein, perched high up by Davos. Montstein is also home of the Monstein beer brewery. A trip to the Friday evening tasting event is a ‘must’ for all beer lovers as the beer is almost glacial in its taste. Monstein brewery attributes this ‘refreshing feel’ to the beer having been brewed with crystal-clear spring water which is apparent upon the first sip.
If taking a horse and cart ride sounds like not enough exercise for you, there are reams and reams of wonderful walks and Langlauf trails. We love to walk from the car park of the Gotchna gondola station down to Serneus along a fantastic walkable sledge run by the river. If the kids are exhausted at the end, then we simply take the post auto from Serneus back to Kloster’s village just in time for coffee and homemade cake at Café Klatsch.
There are some unique shops for meanderings through the village, including cute interior shops like Jochler and Pinecone. The watch and jewellery shop Maissen houses the most sought after Swiss watches and rare spectacles from fabulous brands. If you couldn’t find suitable Winter attire in your starting destination, you can definitely get fashionably kitted out in Kloster’s village. Most of the shops are quite expensive, but there is a ‘conscience friendly’ second-hand children’s shop which has fantastic ski-wear and even toys for those who can’t stop playing- even in the evenings after a day of skiing!
The Klosters Restaurant Scene
I feel like Kloster’s incredible restaurant scene isn’t publicised enough. A couple of years ago, some passionate foodie friends came to visit with no idea what to expect from the culinary offering. Each friend concluded a different favourite, having been able to spend almost every night in a different restaurant ranging from ‘homely’ to ‘gourmet’.
The Hotel Vereina and its artful ‘Haute cuisine’ restaurant is definitely the ultimate for the taste buds alongside its impeccable service and mesmerising wine selection. The amuse bouche sets the scene for what lies ahead since the tasting menu is a popular choice.
Kloster’s institution style hotel Wynegg and its restaurant is apparently a favourite of Prince Charles, particularly under Ruth, the longstanding previous owner. The recent owners have kept with Ruth’s style of quality mountain cuisine, and the unbelievably cosy setting makes a perfect evening with perfect food. If you can’t understand why Nüssli salad mit Ei is one of my favourite Swiss dishes, you have to try it perfected here!
Built at one of the highest points in Kloster’s, Picturesque Berghaus Alpenrösli has hosted many a glamourous ‘hello magazine’ photoshoot. Less glamourous is me on the sledge run down to the village from Alpenroesli, an offer most people take up after dinner. The run is lit with beacons of impressive flames but is rather steep; hence during my last visit, the restaurant kindly drove myself and my risk-averse friends back to the village. The food at Alpenrosli is incredible, and the wine list curated! The team is friendly like family, and my dream would be to stay over and have breakfast on the extensive terrace!
As a design lover, I also love the Restaurant Höhwald, another favourite for stunning views and lunch on the cosy but elegant terrace. The interiors of Höhwald are Alpine perfection, where the details, such as the handmade wooden windows and doors, make my interior heart flutter. The food is theoretically simple, but it is the details that make it so special. The homemade bread melts in your mouth with flavour, and did I mention that they have Kaiser Schmarrn with cherry jam on the Austrian tinged menu!
Klosters After dark
So now you want to come to Kloster’s, I guess you need to know where to sleep! There are a few hotels, including Alpenrösli, mentioned above. However, I feel Kloster’s is a homely place where an Airbnb is the best option, especially given the variety of stunning chalets. For friends who want a hotel experience, I suggest Hotel Piz Buin, especially with children in tow. The hotel also has excellent masseuse and wellness offerings.
Kloster’s does not necessarily sleep early, and you can find people of all ages at the perfectly positioned Casa Antica nightclub, just a stone’s throw away from the bottom of Alpenrosli’s sledge run! Oh, if only the walls could speak, the unbelievable stories it could tell!
The piano bar in the Chesa is another such one of these institutions, and the ambience and cocktail selection are perfect for relaxing with deep conversation and quality time with friends. The Chesa also has a terrace where the sun seems to linger in the late afternoons for further tanning after skiing or bumping into that old friend. But nothing delights me more than a long walk back from the Selfranga (‘snow slope which raised us’) restaurant underneath galaxies of stars with the occasional sound of wild animals having their own private parties too!
So now you have unravelled Kloster’s through my eyes and can pull out this guide whenever the Gotchna mountain calls. Do you have a similar place you love to return to again and again? Share it with me below, and maybe you can persuade me away from my trusted favourite place!
Geeta’s Klosters Black-book
- Gotchna Sport ski rentals: This diligent team always have the latest ski’s and after a brief chat they know exactly which ones to pair you with.
- PT ski: If you want to go to Klosters but want someone to organise every detail of your trip (and ferry you between your accommodation and the gondola stations in heated vans) then look no further than the PTski company. They have an excellent reputation and will take all aspects of ‘schlep’ out of your ski trip!
- Zwergenwey: A magical path in the forest with a hidden zipline- delights my children every time!
- The ice rink: This is at the Kloster’s arena where there is also a pool in Summer.
- The Kesslerhof farm shop: Try the Kessler Hof cheese and thank me later for the recommendation!
- The 232 bus route: The yellow post auto is much loved by my children and the Klosters scenery is much loved by me hence we go for bus rides even when we have no-where in particular to go!
- Schneider: This bakery is good and with Winter birthdays we are grateful for the Blackforest gateaux and party brioche selection which pairs beautifully with birthday champagne.
- Denner: Kloster’s has a great Coop but the Denner is no ordinary Denner, they have delicious local specialties like jam and the best Gerstensuppe in the region.
