One morning at school drop off, a few months after we arrived in Switzerland, I decided to quiz some parents about ‘must-see’ Swiss day trip destinations. I will never forget one father’s immediate and enthusiastic reply. “If you only ever see one place in Switzerland, make it the Lauterbrunnen Valley,” he said as he wrestled to get his 4 year old’s slippers on.
There was no deliberating or pausing to think; his response was almost out of his mouth before I had even finished asking my question! He went on to tell me that this magical destination is the most beautiful place he has ever been to and that we would definitely not regret the 2-hour drive it takes to get there. He spoke of a lush green valley, tall imposing mountain peaks and waterfalls everywhere you look.
To be honest this all sounded a bit Tolkien-esque and too good to be true. But the far-away look he got in his eye as he was describing the lush valley of Lauterbrunnen had me intrigued enough to plan a trip to see what all the fuss was about.
Let me Introduce you to Lauterbrunnen
The small village of Lauterbrunnen is located in the canton of Bern and is part of the Jungfrau region at the foot of the stunning Bernese Alps. It is overlooked by the three famous peaks of the Eiger, the Monch and the Jungfrau and is a great starting place to reach many other parts of the region including car-free Wengen, the Kleine Scheidegg, the charming village of Mürren and another majestic peak, the Schilthorn.
Despite being an important and busy mountain travel hub (the valley terminal of the Wengernalpbahn is located here), Lauterbrunnen itself is a quiet place. A place where you can relax but also somehow sense that adventure is just around the corner (or up the mountain!) should you choose to indulge.
Visit Lauterbrunnen in late Spring
Since our first visit back in 2014, we have visited at many different times of year but I have to say that late Spring really is a really good choice if you are looking for that ‘wow!’ factor. I would suggest heading there towards the end of May to make sure that all the mountain transport options are fully open after their end of ski season maintenance closures.
In the late spring of 2020, we were desperate to get away after the first covid lockdown had finally lifted. We felt like the pandemic situation was easing (Ha! How naive we were!) but we were still a little nervous to be around other actual humans, so we decided a few days hiking and eating out in the fresh air was our best option. We packed the car, grabbed a few bottles of sanitiser and a box of masks and headed to the Hotel Staubbach – a central located simple, no-frills, friendly hotel – for a couple of nights.
We were pleasantly surprised by our huge terrace that afforded us a jaw-dropping uninterrupted view straight down the valley. Would we even leave the hotel I had to ask myself? But of course, we did! What followed were two fabulous family hiking days that only grew my love for this corner of the world.
Day 1: Hike the Hintere Lauterbrunnental
On day 1 we decided to head to the very far end of the valley (das Hintere Lauterbrunnental) and hike an area known for its beautiful waterfalls. We read that this is a bit of a secret paradise and is never crowded so it really ticked all the boxes for our covid-friendly mini-break. The valley has a staggering 72 waterfalls, many of which we saw cascading down the valley walls as we drove the 10 minutes from Lauterbrunnen to Stechelberg.
We parked and for the next three hours, walked an easy loop that took us through lush shady forests, up and over meadows and moorlands and across babbling brooks where we took off our shoes and socks and paddled in the freezing water to cool off. We passed by the Hodrifalle, Talbachfall and the impressive Schmadribach Falls. Each one unique and different to the last.
Visiting in the Springtime means that the torrent of water is really quite impressive thanks to the winter snowmelt. This really was nature at its very best and the varied scenery and sporadic declarations of “Come on boys, I think I can hear another waterfall this way!” were enough to keep our 7 and 10-year-old skipping along like happy little mountain goats.
I would love to return here one day and spend a night at the Berghotel Obersteinberg. This remote guesthouse can only be reached on foot and has no electricity or running water. Food and drink are carried up by mules no less, and then cooked on a wood stove and eaten by candlelight. And then, of course, you wake up on the mountain which is always a special experience.
Day 2: Hike from Kleine Scheidegg to Wengen
We woke early on day 2 as the weather forecast promised thunderstorms and decided to head to a place we had been many times, Kleine Scheidegg. This crossway (the political boundary between the municipalities of Lauterbrunnen and Grindelwald) is situated at just above 2000m and is accessible from Lauterbrunnen via the Wengernalpbahn.
This railway line is quite the feat of engineering and has been running full time since 1925. The view of the valley in its entirety from the train windows is a real crowd-pleaser that elicits lots of ‘oohs’ and ‘ahhs’ and on weekends you have to jostle to get a good spot from which to take a photo! This humble little mountain train carries a whopping 1.8 million visitors to Kleine Scheidegg every year and once at the top, many of these tourists connect to the Jungfrau railway which whisks them off to ‘The Top of Europe´ at Jungfraujoch. But we were in the mood for another hike, so decided to have a quick early lunch at Restaurant Eigergletscher (where the glacier is so close it almost feels like you can reach out and touch it) before heading off.
As the storm clouds started to gather in the distance it was time for us to get moving.
We were hoping to hike the 13km down to Wengen without getting wet but unfortunately, the unpredictable mountain weather knew better and we got a good soaking somewhere between Wixi and Wengeralp! But we all agreed that even in the middle of a storm, the hiking in that region is still absolutely stunning.
Eventually, we all traipsed heavy-footed into Wengen; weary, more than a little damp but smiling. Another Swiss adventure that we would all one day look back on and have a good laugh about!
More Adventures that begin in Lauterbrunnen
Over the years we have had so many adventures that all started in Lauterbrunnen. From cosy weekends with grandparents to paragliding through the valley from top to bottom and everything in between. Whichever way you decide to head up from the valley, you will find something for everyone from picturesque flower meadows and fun playgrounds to underground waterfalls and a James Bond museum!
But the thing that always impresses me most, is that moment when we first drive into the valley and the sheer beauty of it takes our breath away. I found out a few years ago that Tolkien did actually admit that his tales of Middle Earth were inspired by his trip to the Lauterbrunnen Valley in 1911. Much like our weekend, he visited the waterfalls and took a trip up to Kleine Scheidegg where he marvelled at the mountain peaks. It would be another 43 years before he published his epic novel ‘Lord of the Rings’ but it is clear that this special place was etched in his memory that whole time.
So now I can confidently pass the advice I was given on to you – “If you only ever see one place in Switzerland, make it the Lauterbrunnen Valley.” Just like Tolkien and the millions that followed him, you will not be disappointed.
