Written by both Kaccey Mayer and Claire Arnstein
At a length of 375 kilometres, the Rhein is the longest river in Switzerland. It begins its journey in Switzerland Alps, flows through the lake of Constance before narrowing again in Stein am Rhein and continuing along the Swiss/German border as it travels through the country, past Basel, on its way to the North Sea. So much of life around these parts of Switzerland is set against or in the river. Sunday afternoon walks along its banks, bike rides or a picnic z’Nüni, there are even campgrounds directly on its banks. In summer, locals cool down in its waters, floating with a Wickelfisch, a SUP or an inflatable boat – the river current moving them along. But our favourite way to enjoy the river, without having to get wet, is to enjoy a long weekend brunch next to it.
Before moving to Switzerland, I (Kaccey) had always thought of myself as a beach person. But after living by the river near Schaffhausen for the last two years and spending my weekends floating down the river and paddling in the Badis that line the river’s edge, I’ve happily changed my mind. And for me (Claire), I quickly realised after a few months of living here that the Rhein is the beating heart of Basel. It’s where you meet your friend for a coffee or lunch. It’s where you go for a swim, a walk or simply sit and soak up the sun. It’s where many Baslers work – some of the city’s large corporations have their office building along its banks. It has a lure that I can’t describe and one that I can’t resist!
So come on a journey with us as we travel along the Rhein to find the perfect place to enjoy a lazy weekend brunch – swimming in the Rhein optional. We got brunch options from Stein am Rhein to Basel, all with a beautiful river view. Is there a better way to enjoy a lazy Sunday morning?
Five places to Brunch along the Rhein
1. Uferlos an der Schifflände, Stein am Rhein - Kaccey
We begin this gourmet journey just as the Rhein exits the lake of Constance in Stein am Rhein – a fairytale little town, popular with tourists in both the Summer and Winter seasons. Uferlos an der Schifflände, our brunch location located just as the name suggests “Uferlos – Riverbankless” is right by the Boat Dock. While you take in the riverfront views from its terrace, enjoy the scrumptious set brunch menu, including fresh juice, amazing coffees, your choice of egg (hardboiled, scrambled or fried) yummy bircher muesli, various cheeses and hams and of course, gipfeli (and other breads options too). This place is very popular and I recommend booking in advance, especially if you want to enjoy the terrace. They only accept cash or Twint, so make sure you have some money with you or the app downloaded before heading there. In the summer, you can also arrange to enjoy this lovely brunch at the Uferlos Strandbad (about a 10 minute walk away from town), before you jump into the river for a swim or paddleboard.
If you happen to be there on the weekend with little kids in tow, head down for a walk down along the river (away from the town centre) and check out the miniature train (Liliput) and if the kids need to blow off some steam, check out the fantastic playground situated just a little further down.
Cost: 25chf adults (Kids free, excluding the egg options, which is extra)
2. Schlössli Wörth, Rheinfalls - Kaccey
Floating further down the Rhein, either by paddleboard, blow- up-boat or taking the ferry, we make our way towards the biggest waterfall in Europe – the Rhine Falls – an attraction that draws many tourists to Switzerland and neighbouring Schaffhausen. However, in summer, the waterfall is at its most powerful, with the average water flow rate reaching 600 m3 per second.
To beat the crowds during the warmer months and enjoy an up-close and personal experience with the Rhine Falls, join one of the Sunday breakfasts put together by the Rhyfall Mändli, in conjunction with the Rheinfall Gastronomie. Our adventure began bright and early (8:30), with a boat trip out to the middle rock of the Rhine falls to take in the atmosphere bathed in morning sunshine. As this boat trip is for brunch-goers only, you basically have the rock to yourself. Afterwards, enjoy an amazing brunch, featuring fresh salmon, warm bread and very nice coffee, all while taking in the majestic view from the terrace of the Schlössli Wörth, situated in the “Grande Dame” (Noble Lady) in the fall’s basin.
Cost: 49.90chf (includes boat ride) adults. Kids under the age of 6 are free (increasing scale of cost for children over 6, starting at 17.50chf)
3. Mundart, Rheinfelden - Claire and Kaccey
As we continue to follow the river from east to west across Switzerland’s north, we reach our next destination, the lovely town of Rheinfelden. All the restaurants and cafes along the picturesque main cobbled street that runs the length of the old town, back directly onto the river, and nearly all of them have terraces and windows overlooking the water. Oh, the decisions! We decided to check out Mundart.
The view from Mundart let us have a front-row seat to the powerful Rhein and had the bonus of a view across to Germany – one of the many benefits to border-town living as Claire has previously written. Just a few steps out of the restaurant and across the Rheinbrücke, and you are in a new country! This quaint little restaurant situated in the heart of the Rheinfelden old town puts on a delicious and filling Brunch, perfect for a girl’s morning out but also great for families. There are high chairs, and children pay 1CHF per year of their age for their brunching experience. There are various foods available, from pastries and bread to cheese and meats and muesli and cereals. Even the tea, a tasty loose leaf blend, reached my British (Claire) standards. In addition to all the delicious food and beautiful views, the service was particularly friendly and attentive, even on a busy summer Sunday morning. Now we know why it’s so popular – book ahead!
Cost: 28chf, adults / 1chf/year of age for kids
4. Rhystärn, Basel - Claire
As the Rhein meanders its way into the city of Basel, there is a unique and fun way to take Brunch and feel like a tourist at the same time. Climb aboard a beautiful modern boat from the Basler Personenschiffahrt company and soak up the sights and sounds of the city whilst enjoying a feast that includes pastries, bread and fruit as well as local honey, milk, yogurt and juices. For those who want the whole brunch experience, there are egg and fish specialties too. This unique way to enjoy a casual weekend meal is offered every Sunday between 10 am and 2 pm and is guaranteed to satisfy your hunger as you are welcome to help yourself as many times as you like!
Depending on which departure time you choose, your brunch boat takes you eastwards past famous traditional landmarks such as the Basel Munster, the Tinguely Museum and in modern, stark contrast, the tallest buildings in Switzerland, the Roche towers. If you head west, expect the smooth ride to take you past the busy harbour and right through the point where Switzerland, France and Germany meet.
Unsurprisingly, this Brunch is very popular amongst tourists and locals alike, so reservation is very much recommended. Ship ahoy!
Cost: 59chf, adults/27chf, children
5. Oscar Baklava, Weil am Rhein - Claire
The last stop on our brunching journey is just across the border into the most southerly town in Germany, Weil am Rhein. I have been enjoying the food at Oscar Baklava for regular catch-ups with two of my best friends for a couple of years now. It never disappoints. This unassuming Turkish restaurant off the main street sells incredible Baklava and desserts (widely recognised as the best in the area), but it’s the breakfast and brunch options that keep me coming back for more. Whether inside during winter or out on their large terrace on a sunny day, their simple yet delicious breakfast dishes and friendly service are always a treat that I look forward to. Enjoy individual plates such as warming lentil soup, eggs with sujuk (spiced sausage) or Lahmacun (Turkish pizza) or perhaps a mixed platter to share that usually includes Borek (spring rolls), olives, fried potatoes, cheese, jams and much more. I always leave this place feeling full of food and full of love.
Cost: €15 on average
So there ends our culinary tour along the Rhein! But this is just the beginning! Trust us when we say this is just a snippet into the many great places to enjoy a lazy weekend. We may need to write a sequel to this article! So if you make it to any of the places we recommend, or indeed if you have inside knowledge of other delicious hidden gems – let us know! We would love to hear your brunch tales!
