Anyone that spends any amount of time with tiny humans will know this strange phenomenon all too well. When out and about in the world, regardless of when the last crumbs of food entered their tiny mouths, it never takes long for them to proclaim for all to hear: “I’m SO hungry!” To be entirely fair to the little people, my husband and I are also big fans of the humble snack, and we are often lucky enough to enjoy it in some pretty lovely spots here in the Basel area. And behind every snack break, there is a story to tell. So here they are!
Where to enjoy z’Nüni (snack) around Basel
1. By the Rhein
In my opinion, being near water is one of life’s pleasures. Combine that with a snack break, and it doesn’t get much better. Here in Basel, we lack a quintessentially Swiss lake, but we do have one of Europe’s most important rivers meandering through our city; the mighty Rhein. Ever-present and ever-flowing, on any given day, come rain or shine, you will find Baslers and visitors taking a moment on the banks of the river to watch the boats, swimmers, and occasional jet skier pass by. In Spring, the Alpine snowmelt thunders through the city, crashing at the shores, saying hello to our city as it makes its way to the North Sea. A Basel summer is typically hot and sticky, and the most popular way to cool off is to simply take a float down river for a couple of kilometres and watch the world go by. For us, we often gravitate there when it’s time to eat. One hot and humid day, my two sons and I decided to take a picnic and sit on one of the stony beaches that line the river’s edge. We had it all to ourselves except for a family of ducks that took a liking to us (or to our fresh bread, we weren’t sure). A little haven of peace and tranquillity in the middle of the city. Perfect.
2. Gempen, Solothurn
Wherever you are in Basel or the surrounding areas, it’s easy to spot the peak above the village of Gempen. At 759 m, it is the perfect spot to hike, cycle or drive up and be rewarded with one of the best views – not only Basel and its environs, but also across to the Swiss Jura, the sweeping plains and peaks of the French Alsace and the Vosges Mountains, the Black Forest in Germany and, of course, the Alps on a clear day. The 100-year-old restaurant up there, Bärgbeiz Gempenturm, offers delicious food and drinks inside and on their large terrace, but we often take our own z’nüni and choose a spot away from the crowds to enjoy a bite and breathe in the view. I find the early morning light up there particularly beautiful, so I regularly drop the boys at school and drive 20 minutes up to the top, where I will sit with the morning air and a hot drink – Such a great way to start the day. This early morning treat is particularly sweet when fresh snow has fallen the night before. One memorable snowy morning, I found myself up there by 08:30, taking photos of the snowy sunrise with the temperature hovering at around ten below. Just me, my camera and my thermos of hot tea. Truly a z’nüni to remember.
3. Our local border with France
We have lived in two different houses here in Switzerland, and both of them were within a few kilometres of the border with France. When my oldest son learnt to ride his bike, we would strap his younger brother into a seat on the back of my bike and ride a 10km loop that straddled the border. Right next to this nondescript crossing was one of those infamous red Swiss benches that sat under a couple of trees that provided just the right amount of shade needed when you were mid-way through a hot summer bike ride. This spot is where we would always stop and have our snack. More often than not, the bench was free, but if it wasn’t, we would simply sit in the lovely meadow nearby and watch the world go by from there. Walkers, cyclists and riders on horseback would pass us by and reply politely when our young boys practised their rudimental Swiss German on them by shouting “Grüezi!” Then we would get back on our bikes and cycle the rest of the loop back home. I sometimes pass this spot on my own, and it feels wrong not to stop and sit for a while to enjoy the view and fondly reminisce.
4. Ermitage Arlesheim
About 8 km south of Basel is one of my favourite villages. Arlesheim is the kind of place you could spend the whole day in, doing nothing in particular and enjoy every single second of it. Quaint cobbled streets, picture-perfect houses, friendly folk, beautiful parks and an architecturally impressive cathedral. There is no wonder that the whole village is part of the Inventory of Swiss Heritage Sites. I dare you to spend 15 minutes there and not be totally charmed by it and silently vow to move there one day. Ok, that’s enough gushing. Towering above the village are the ruins of Birseck Castle, built in 1243 and surrounding the castle is the stunning Ermitage, the largest landscaped English garden in Switzerland. One of the most peaceful places I have ever visited. There are lakes filled with fish, caves and grottos to explore, a huge variety of trees and plants and with many places to sit and take a break. One summers day, we met a group of friends there for a late afternoon bite to eat underneath one of the huge shady trees that encircle the gardens. There is so much space that it is easy to find a spot away from other groups. The kids pretended they were knights and princesses, we ate and drank all the food and then when all the playing and eating was done, we wandered back to the village through the gardens taking in the beauty all over again, this time through the hazy warm filter of the evening sun.
5. Münsterplatz, Basel
If I am in the city, I always make a point to wander through and take a seat in Münsterplatz. My favourite Platz of them all! It has been car-free for 14 years, and there is no public transport stop in the square itself, so the only sounds you will hear are the ringing bells of the Münster that rises in the southeast corner and the rumbling and rattling of bicycle wheels as Baslers’ hurtle across the cobbles. The old canon’s houses that line the square are pleasing to the eye and give this medieval Platz a unique feel. Part of the square, the tree-lined area known as Kleine Münsterplatz, is where I like to sit and take a break. Thanks to the lack of traffic, children can run free safely, and it’s a lovely cool spot in the warmer months. The Münster is one of Basel’s top tourist spots (as well as a local love), and it can draw the crowds, so it’s a fantastic place to people watch for a while, away from the hustle and bustle of the city’s main shopping street just down the hill.
So there you have it. My top five places to enjoy your z’Nüni, your z’Vieri, your snack or whatever you call it in your corner of the world. A moment to sit and be still for a while, refuel and just take it all in. What could be better than that?
