Of all the delicious specialities from the canton of Graubünden, I have developed a slight obsession with Capuns. While yes, I am always up for anything doused in cream. It is the variations of the dish that have me trying the dish at each restaurant I visit in the region.
Sure, you are almost certain to find spätzli dough wrapped in chard leaves on each plate. But it’s how the other components – cured meat, cream and cheese – are combined that keeps me coming back. Will it be laced indulgently in heavy cream or mixed with stock for a lighter touch? Will it be Salsiz or Bünderfleisch or perhaps even bacon to top the dish? Or will I discover a controversial modern twist that will make every Nona roll her eyes? Variations are as common as the dish itself.
So ready to give Capuns a try but wondering where? Here is my (ever-growing) list of restaurants where I have tried Capuns in Graubünden.
Where to eat Capuns in Graubünden
Not your Nona’s Capuns
Belvedere Hotel, Scuol
I gasped with glee when the plate of beautifulness landed in front of me one quiet lunch at the bar of Scuol’s Belvedere Hotel. But this capuns is not just a pretty plate, with the piece of art also performing well in taste. The additional local touch of dried pear puree is inspirational. Not your Nona’s capuns.
Refined and Fine
Hotel Bär & Post, Zernez
Capuns as a main meal is quite heavy, so I was pleasantly surprised to see it offered as a small, two-piece version at this popular restaurant in Zernez. Topped with melt in your mouth bacon pieces, crunchy croutons and the noticeable absence of cream, this is capuns refined.
Unexpectedly Good
Badi Restaurant Caumasee, Flims
On our visit to the famous Caumasee in 2020, I was pleasantly surprised to find a delicious version of Capuns hidden in what is otherwise a typical “Badi” menu. Their capuns swam in a flavourful cream that had us lapping up leftovers with bread.
For Vegetarians
Tegia Larnags, Laax
If you like your capuns sweet and meat-free, you will enjoy the unique vegetarian version of Capuns at this Laax mountain institution. Flavoured with dried apricots, the capuns take on an almost middle-eastern inspired twist. Tip: Book ahead in all seasons, Tegia Larnags is a popular destination.
Capuns with the locals
Pizzeria Allegra, Scuol
While I usually stick to pizzas at this family-friendly restaurant, I, of course, had to try their capuns. Served straight out of the oven, Allegra’s tops its capuns with thin strips of Bündnerfleisch, a locally cured meat.
For big portions
Hotel Astras, Scuol
he Capuns portion, actually of its main meals, is huge at Hotel Astra, perfect for refuelling after a big day on the slopes or trails. The staff are particularly friendly, and the kids will feel especially welcome.
Capuns with Schellen Ursli
Hotel Meisser, Guarda
After exploring the streets out of Guarda, which inspired the famous children’s story Schellen Ursli, nab a table in the winter garden of the Hotel Meisser and enjoy their capuns with views across the valley. Their version swims in a flavorful, creamy sauce sprinkled with local mountain cheese.
Capuns at home
Arena Regional, Scuol
Want to make capuns at home without much effort? Then stop by the local supermarket Arena Regional located in the same complex as Restaurant Allegra in Scuol. Here you will find their freezer section filled with Capuns and other pre-made local dishes. Perfect for taking home for a quick dinner.
Other recommendations
- Heddi from Cuisine Helvetica recommends the Capuns from Giodi Vegetarian and Co. in Pontresina
- Cooke Andie from Helvetic Kitchen’s recipe for Capuns
- Graubünden top Chef Andreas Caminada is a champion of local cuisine and shares his version (in german) of Capuns here.
Do you have a favourite place to enjoy Capuns? Share it with me below, so I can add it to my list of places to try!
