The Röstigraben Letters – March 2021

March, 2021

Liebi Laura

Well, it looks like we both got away for one more winter weekend. Did you enjoy yours? We “almost” made it to your side of the röstigraben, but took a left up towards Oberwallis instead of heading further west. Although we could feel we had gotten closer with just as many “bonjours” as “grüezis” as we hiked around Zermatt (by the way, do you also say “hello” to everyone you meet while walking?). Both sides of the röstigraben were taking full advantage of the lack of international tourists in Zermatt. It is a big drive for us to get there, 4.5 hours door to door without any traffic via the Furka car train, and this was only the second time my Swiss-hubby had visited. His first coincided with my first visit almost 16 years ago while taking my Australian Grandparents on the Glacier Express. I was surprised he had not been before that. Is that the same with the french-swiss considering you are much closer?

 

We haven’t been often to Geneva either, and honestly, our trips have all coincided with a visit to the Australian consulate to renew passports, a task I must do in person. The journey from Zug to Geneva is a long one, just over 3 hours by train, which leaves just enough time to make the passport meeting, and meet a friend for lunch before turning around and heading back home. We did stay the night once, but we only just touched the surface, and I don’t remember much other than the lake and, of course, the fountain. Though I am happy I can say, renewing our swiss passports is a much easier affair, requiring no more than a 15-minute appointment in the local parliamentary building. Did you also apply for Swiss citizenship? I applied back in 2007, right after Australia changed the rules allowing its citizens to hold more than one passport. It was a proud day when I could finally hold that red rectangle in my hand. I am not sure if it was at that moment that I took on my husband’s “Heimatort”, or as you called it, canton of origin, or if it occurred when we got married. And just like your Swiss husband, mine has also never lived in his, Kerns in Obwalden.  I think we need only go back a few generations to find a family member who did call Kerns home. However, we also have strong roots here in our current village, thanks to the family’s maternal side. But as I think the canton of origin comes from the paternal side, it’s not our “Heimatort”. Rolf’s Grandmother’s side of the family go back here generations, and it is not strange for our kids to go to school with their 4th cousins. Village life is a mind-boggling experience for me, having grown up in a big city.

I am glad they laid roots here in Zug though, it is a beautiful part of the country. It is a mixture of rural and urban, lake and mountain, but still never far away from the hustle and bustle of Zürich city life. Your Instagram post discovering Nyon’s fishing culture reminded me that we, too, have a strong fishing culture, and especially fish restaurants. Today, a distant cousin is still a part-time fisherman and sells his catch as “Fischknusperli” – battered fish – out of a food truck at local events. While the kids would prefer the fish with a big portion of Pommes Frites, we adults usually stick to tartare sauce or mayo and a slice of fresh bread.

Which reminds me, you asked me about bread making! Yes, I also have Heddie’s Book “Swiss Bread” and have enjoyed making recipes from it! While I have yet to, like you, ‘Taillaule Neuchâteloise’, I have made the Vulleykuchen which comes almost directly from the röstigraben itself. So delicious when served alongside an Apero platter of cheeses and meats, or just with a simple green salad. The bread referenced as having a history around Zug I have yet to try! On my list! As is baking a loaf of “Tessiner”, as we call it on this side. My kids love breaking apart the soft “Pane Ticines” loaves and either making mini sandwiches or snacking on the bread. I think this type of bread is best enjoyed with a thick layer of salted butter and nothing else – yum! If I haven’t purchased one of those tiny salted butter portions we can get in the supermarket, I simply sprinkle over some fleur de sel. Oh, it’s the simple things that bring such pleasure.

Before it is time for my next reply, it will be Easter. How do you celebrate? Other than going to church, the whole celebration isn’t a big deal in our family. We usually, pandemic permitting, have either a simple brunch at home with family, or sometimes its lunch. There’s no menu that we return to year after year, but there are a few staples like easter-shaped-zopf (bunnies or a nest), coloured boiled picnic eggs, and of course chocolate. The kids will do a simply easter egg hunt when they wake up, and that’s about it.  If Rolf has time, he may decorate eggs with the kids using spring flowers and onion coloured water, but it’s not a must. We won’t be going away either, as our school holidays don’t coincide with Easter, instead are always the last two weeks in April. We will leave where we go up to the weather and the pandemic situation.

I very much look forward to your reply!

Liebe Grüsse

Kristin

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About the author

Picture of Kristin Reinhard
Kristin Reinhard
Kristin Reinhard is an Australia-born writer and photographer who has lived in Switzerland for 25 years. Fluent in Swiss-German and married to a Swiss husband, she raises three bilingual kids in the canton of Zug. Through z'Nüni, she shares trusted stories to help readers experience Swiss life more deeply.
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